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Squeeze In owners Gary and Misty Young have made breakfast a family affair. Photo courtesy of Squeeze In |
CommentsA Good Egg
Published: March 14, 2008March Print Edition
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Catch the Interactive Easter Brunch at Moody's. Photo by Tom Patton
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They say you should start your day with a good breakfast and Truckee/Tahoe restaurants are making sure that is a pleasurable possibility this Easter weekend. Following are some of Moonshine Ink’s reviewers’ (it’s a tough job but somebody’s got to do it) and readers’ favorites.
Catch the Interactive Easter Brunch at Moody's. Photo by Tom Patton
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Lone Eagle Grille
The Hyatt Regency, Incline Village
775-832-1234
This brunch is not for the faint at heart. With more than a dozen entrees to choose from (including a killer Eggs Benedict) and “action” islands including chefs preparing omelets, one devoted specifically to wild game, a carving station with two meat selections (the New York Prime Rib has been written up many times and for good reason) and another serving up King Crab Legs (no Dungeness for these guys), you might as well chock this up as a full day – and be happy to do so. The view of Lake Tahoe alone is worth the $40 price tag, but it is not to be out-done by the lodge-style atmosphere complete with two large stone fireplaces, wood beamed ceilings and a turn-of-the-century canoe suspended above the feast. For dessert the Huckleberry Cheesecake is the way to go.
Moody’s
10007 Bridge St., Truckee
530-587-8688
Billing itself as an “Interactive Easter Brunch” Moody’s is not making you sing for your supper. You just get to be the decision maker as you meander through the expertly prepared display of appetizers and salads right on to the grand finish of dessert selections. Chef Mark Estee could have brought his talent anywhere, but Truckee is stoked to have him. The building itself, formerly The Passage and owned by the Moody family (remember when Moody used to tend bar there?) radiates with great memories. Combine that with first-class, award-wining culinary artistry and really you can forget about skiing. For Easter, Moody’s is starting with a cold buffet of assorted fruits and berries, pastries and smoked salmon, scallops, shrimp and mussels. Leave room for Halibut Provencal, Lobster and Asparagus Risotto and the Benedict Station consisting of Tomato and Avocado Benedict, Blackened Shrimp Benedict, Chorizo Benedict and Crab Benedict. For entertainment there is a jazz trio and open kitchen allowing you to watch the master at work. Adults $35; Children 12 and under, $15
Sunnyside Resort
1850 West Lake Blvd., West Lake
530-583-7200
Summer or winter, you cannot beat the view of the BIG LAKE from this shore-front Tahoe mainstay. In business for more than 60 years, its popularity has never wavered and it remains a constant for both locals and visitors alike. This year’s Easter brunch buffet begins at 9 a.m. and continues until 1:30 p.m. punctuated by two Easter Egg hunts beginning at 11 a.m. Fans of the Salmon Benedict will be happy note it is back by popular demand accompanied by a carving stations and omelet station, salads, pasties, appetizers, traditional breakfast selections and basically the whole nine yards. Sunnyside only opens for brunch three times a year so they do not fool around when it comes to pulling out the stops on these limited engagements. Reservations are recommended.
Squeeze In
10060 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee
530-587-9814
Celebrating 35 years in business, this charming, cozy breakfast, brunch and lunch nook is worth the wait. Owner Gary and Misty Young have made it a family affair and it shows in the attention to service and quality. While there have been some up-grades over the years (they now take credit cards) the menu has remained relatively unchanged with the exception of minor improvements i.e., prawns now replace the bay shrimp in omelet number nine. With 63 omelets to choose from and a dozen other breakfast selections it can seem a bit daunting, but have no fear: the menu provides happy icons indicating “most popular” choices and the wait staff is very free with advice. Recommends include: Huevos Montana, topped with sprouts and the best salsa this side of, well, Mexico. (It’s all about the shredded carrots.) The décor is an interesting combination of kitsch and old-Truckee memorabilia, right down the signatures on the 200-year-old original brick walls. Squeeze In also serves a nice Mimosa and Bloody Marys made with Han, an Asian Vodka served exclusively in beer and wine establishments in New York and California. Most Truckee locals avoid a wait by going Tuesdays through Thursdays, but since you’ll be out hunting eggs all day, get there early (they open at 7 a.m.) or call in your order for a takeout.
Smokey’s Kitchen
12036 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee
530-582-4535
Celebrated for its barbeque (they have their own smoker on the premises) this barn-hall of a restaurant is becoming increasingly well known among Truckee locals for its breakfasts. Owner Mike Lathbury and Manager Jessie Haden great and treat each familiar and unfamiliar face with the same welcome and concern, making sure their breakfast is exactly to his or her liking. The only real complaint seems to be that the popular breakfast burritos are too big (can you say “doggy bag?”). Still patrons usually seem to finish them despite themselves. Specialties include homemade corn beef hash and Smokey’s iron Skillet Potatoes, also available in a veggie version. For egg dishes, you can’t go wrong with the Grande Machaca Burrito (beef strips seasoned with hot sauce and garlic scrambled with three eggs, cheddar, jack cheese, red and green onions and Mexican beans) or the Veggie omelet, which consists of broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and red bell peppers steamed with garlic and herbs and topped with jalapeno jack cheese. Great location right at the entrance/exit to Interstate 80 near Donner Lake so you can hit it coming or going.
Donner Lake Kitchen
13710 Donner Pass Rd., Truckee
530-587-3119
An absolute mainstay in the Truckee breakfast circuit for more than 30 years, this joint of all joints is a “must do” if you ever want to be considered anything more than a transplant to the area. They still operate on a “cash only” basis, use the same secret recipe for their beans in the Huevos Rancheros that Donna perfected three decades ago, and serve some of the same clientele. Located right off Donner Lake behind Donner Pines market (their ATM make the cash only policy do-able) it is a kid-friendly place with Frosty the Snowman Pancakes, Bunny Pancakes (for Easter), and (for the folks) a BYOB agreement that will make a Mimosa possible. Also a good Benedict (if you want your eggs hard, they hear ya’) served in full or half orders. Again, very busy, so get there, early. Parking is fine and just ignore the big bear who’s in love with the dumpster.
Rosie’s Café
571 North Lake Blvd., Tahoe City
530-583-8504
The fact that this establishment, built on the site of livery barn in the late 1800s, has survived two fires (1932 and 1986) just goes to show that its menu and ambiance has proven staying power. Rising like the Phoenix, it made its way back and continues to thrive due in large part of its simple fare (AKA comfort food) and step-back-in-time décor enhanced by memorabilia purchased at the auction following the first inferno. Bad luck aside (or maybe because of the lore of it), the place is packed and for good reason. It is a family-friendly icon with a full bar, full-on breakfast menu consisting of all Mom’s specialties and the proprietor, Karl Motsenbocker, is always on-site to make sure all are happy and destined to be repeat customers
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